“The great organic cotton fake out, ethnic cleansing, etc…etc! ”
When the word “organic” is placed on a product, images of idyllic chemical-free green pastures are conjured, an ethically minded PC utopia where earth and man, flora and fauna are all living in harmony. One tends to feel good about purchasing things labeled “organic”, even though it costs a bit more money, you’re doing your small part in the greater scheme of things, by voting for a better, cleaner, world with your wallet. You even perhaps assume it was made ethically. But really, organic, as most anything hyper-marketed by large companies these days, conglomerates with investors to answer to and a bottom line to maintain, is sadly just a bunch of hogwash aka ‘greenwashing’ (the de rigueur term to describe companies pretending to care).
Today I read this fantastic New York Times investigative article on the organic cotton industry in India which is organized largely by corrupt practices and fraudulent lies. The article states that a large majority of organic cotton hailing from India, is in-fact, not actually organic. Even worse, is that this is common knowledge within the fashion industry. Watching these textile underworlds implode upon themselves is truly upsetting and extremly fascinating- mafias, corrupt governments and shady billionaires kowtowing to mega brands which consistently lie to consumers on who makes their clothing and where it’s even made (“Hello Made in Italy label, we’re all looking at you!) yet hiking their prices regularly claiming inflation. Even the über trendy world of recycling (yarns, textiles, clothing -which are not 100% natural fibers) has its downfall, micro plastics by the trillions fall off the recycled textile items when washed inside your washing machine, falling down through the drain, into the sewer systems, out into the eco systems entering the bodies of animals and waterways finally finding a home inside you. And does anyone remember just last year when the entire world was mouth agape being told that a large majority of the cotton fibers and products exported from China (1 in 5!) was picked and processes by the Uyghur ethnic minority group, held in slavery as part of an ethnic cleansing campaign in China? And let’s not even get into the trash piling up in Africa, cheap thrill clothing discards, the majority of which is useless and made of polyester.
Basic Tenets of Buying Anything in 2022 and Beyond (for now!:)
Buy less and focus on quality: We don’t need more clothing, maybe a few new things a year (if even that!) and when you do purchase those new things (from Mexchic obviously!), let them be quality pieces you’ll want to wear for many years to come. First look inside the garment to see the construction. Does it look flimsy or well constructed? If you can see polyester overlock stitching lining the inside, or threads dangling everywhere, it’s not well made. If you see French seams, ie: it looks just as beautiful inside as it does outside, that’s quality.
Only buy natural fibers: 100% cotton, wool, alpaca, hemp, linen, bamboo, silk, etc. Say no to plastics of any kind. even buttons and zippers. Period. Learn how to read clothing labels. Clearly organic is not to be trusted, but honestly what is?! Your local fibershed crafters and farmers directory can be a fantastic place to start learning who around you is actually walking the walk.
Buy locally and from individual designers, makers, artisans, or small sized companies: If you do have to shop, do it locally! Buying locally directly helps the economy of where you live and buying from small sized designers/crafters/artisans/companies is a great way to find out all you can about the process, because there is no bureaucratic cake walk to get an answer on how things are made and who is making them- not to mention the designer making the stuff, is usually the same person who answers emails. A lot of times you can even visit the studio or factory of the designer and commission them to make special pieces for you.
Find a good seamstress/tailor: Having a seamstress or tailor on hand to help you tweak hem lengths, waist lines, repair buttons and zippers is always a good idea and will help the longevity of a garment.
Buy Vintage: Pre 1960’s vintage is impeccably made, beautifully cut and probably not made of plastic. Honestly any quality vintage is better than a shopping spree at Zara. Before I moved to Mexico I’d go to thrift stores in my hometown of Miami on a weekly basis. I learned so much about the fit of a garment and proper construction by deconstructing old clothing. Things were made so differently, the textile itself, the sewing, pattern making the zippers were even made of metal!